How to Surf Monster Waves in Fiji
Matt, Lesley, JD, Stef & I
Natadola Beach – Viti Levu, Fiji
Learning to Surf has been on my travel to-do list for a while now. No, my wipeout on the Flowrider this summer doesn’t count, folks.
While I knew I would eventually get the opportunity to learn how to surf, I never thought that my first time hopping on a surfboard would be in Fiji.
Our instructors, John and Charlie from Fiji Surf Co. met up with us on Natadola Beach and prepared us mentally for our first ever surf lesson.
“Folks, be careful out there. The waves are pretty beast today and they’ll definitely take you under if you don’t keep your focus on one thing and one thing only. That’s shredding the gnar my friends!” ~ said nobody ever.
In all seriousness, the waves on Natadola Beach were just about non-existent this afternoon. So non-existent that I wasn’t even sure that we would be able to attempt to catch a wave. For a few seconds I sat there wondering what a surfing lesson be like without waves.
Crickets…
Back to the regularly scheduled program.
SURFING 101
John started out by giving us some simple instructions about how to align your body on the surfboard, how to paddle efficiently and how to take that final step from lying flat on your board to getting yourself into a standing position and riding a wave.
After the instructions, I was eager to give it a shot. I had spent a good chunk of my younger years busting out tricks on a skateboard and cruising the slopes of New England on a snowboard. Not to be overly confident or anything, but I’ve got this whole surfing thing in the bag.
That is until I actually got into the water.
THE REALITY OF SURFING
I was so amped to get in the water and test out my newly acquired surf skills that I had just learned on the sand. Coincidentally enough, it’s a hell of a lot harder once you get in the water. I had no clue how difficult it would be to paddle out far enough to catch a wave in the first place. Sure, I’ve taken my fair share of leisurely swims in all sorts of destinations across the world, but using the correct strokes that will get you moving in a straight line on a surfboard left my shoulders exhausted early.
By the time I reached the point where I needed to turn around, my arms were completely spent. John yelled out to us when it was time to dig deep and paddle towards the shore. Each time John yelled out to us, I thought he was joking. I looked back and couldn’t see a wave in sight. I don’t know about anybody else, but I’m sure as hell not paddling my ass off for nothing. Not today, John! Not today.
Turns out this isn’t Johns first rodeo. It’s not his first time teaching people how to surf either. I should have known I could trust in him. Once the first few waves passed by me, I knew what I was doing wrong. I simply wasn’t following his instructions.
SURF’S UP DUDE!
I noticed a small wave creeping up in the distance and at the same time I heard John yell out “paddle, paddle, paddle!” I whipped my board around on a dime and instantly started to dig into the water as hard as I could. Just as I started to feel the board rising underneath me, I made my move.
Within a split second, I went from being on my stomach to my feet. I flung my arms out wide and attempted to center my body over the invisible centerline of the board below me.
I started to daydream. All I could hear was Sublime – “Badfish” playing in the background…
This two-foot monster of a wave was taking me for my first ride and I was loving every second of it.
As I cruised towards John, he did what he does best. Shoot rad wide-angle photos of first-time surfers while making them look like Kelly Slater tearing up the waves.
Photo by: John Dornellas of FijiSurfShots.com
I tried my hand at riding a few more waves and I ended up catching one or two more on the day. I must say, not too shabby for a radical surfer dude like myself.
NOTES FROM A FIRST TIME SURFER
After wrapping up my first ever surf lesson with Fiji Surf Co., I jotted down a few notes about my first surfing experience.
1. Surfing ain’t easy!
2. Because you’ve boarded (skateboard, snowboard, sandboard, wakeboard, ripstik) before doesn’t mean crap in the world of Surfing.
3. Listen to your instructor! He/she knows what their talking about.
4. Wear a rash guard or your nipples will burn like mine are as I sit here typing this post. Trust me when I say they will burn for days.
5. Get out there and HAVE FUN!
Oh, and don’t forget…
“The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun” ~Duke Kahanamoku
###
QUESTONS FOR YOU:
1. Are you interested in learning how to surf? Leave a comment below and let us know where you would like to take your first surf lesson.
2. Are you a rad surfer? Share your favorite surfing experiences with us in a comment below.
Man surfing is so much harder than you think. I feel your pain Ryan. I used to live in Cali “tried” to teach myself to surf a lot. I am a fairly athletic guy, and surfing is by far the hardest sport I’ve tried.
SO much harder! Oddly enough, I thought the paddling was the toughest part. What did you find was the toughest part of learning how to surf?
Ahhh wettie rash – there’s a blast from the past most kids get nappy rash mine was wettie rash (i’m talking about before rash vests existed :-) – sure does burn – I disagree with the skating/snowboarding not making a difference though – In my experience having grown up skating and surfing one makes developing skills in the other faster for sure.
Tristan
Yeah, I obviously forgot to wear a “rash vest”. LOL! I guess you’re right, I probably gained a lot of balance from skateboarding/snowboarding in my younger years.
You, my friend, are a shoe-in for winning the Vans Triple Crown next year… :)
Thank you for the boost of confidence, Matt. Will you come watch me crush Slater next year?
Great to hear about your first surfing lesson. I have a few cousins in Hawaii that surf a lot, so I’ve been able to surf a few times, but in no way am I good at all – but it sure is a lot of fun. Listening to Badfish now!
Thanks Mark! Who ever said surfers were lazy? It’s a tough life out there on the water. LOL about the Badfish reference!
GOOD JOB RYAN..
Thanks Annie!
Great post! I loved reading it.
Thanks Auds & Ryan. Glad to have you guys as new readers.
Awesome post. I was lucky enough to grow up in Hawaii. Surfing is second nature to me but doesn’t mean I can’t relate. I just happened to stumbled upon your blog and have really enjoyed it as well!
Thanks Elliot! Things are a little slow right now due to Christmas, New Years, etc but be sure to stop by again soon.
I took a surf lesson in Southern Australia once but the water was soooo cold I could barely move and never actually managed to do anything that resembles “surfing.” (OK, it was Australia so it wasn’t THAT cold but I’m a baby with cold water.) I’d love to give it a shot in warmer water. Fiji sounds great!
Too funny! Believe it or not, I’m a cold water hater as well. I’m from Massachusetts and I couldn’t tell you the last time I swam in the ocean here. It’s been years and years since I’ve last stepped foot in the water here. I’d die for a chance to step foot in the Red Sea again. As for Fiji, the water was cool due to the weather that day but still incredibly warm compared to most places on on the East Coast of the US (where I’m from). Let me know if you ever make it to Fiji, I’ll hook you up with the guys from Fiji Surf Co.
Ryan, you are awesome. Looks like so much fun.
Also looks like you did better this time then the wipeout video. Hahaha
Thanks guys! It was a lot of fun, minus the burning nipples for the next few days. LOL. I did MUCH better than I had previously done on the Flowrider. Good observation!
I love this post. Surfing is definitely one of the hardest things you can do and you just don’t know until you get out there for the first time! I have taught lots of people the fundamentals, but actually teaching them to surf, well that’s another story. Some get it and some don’t. Looks like you did GREAT! BTW, who is the best surfer in the line-up? Easy! The one having the most fun!