Take Me Out to the Ball Game – An Authentic Nicaraguan Experience

Central America, Nicaragua

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By Ryan Gargiulo

Did you miss: Goodbye Granada, Hello Leon! If so, be sure to check it out!

Catching a Baseball Game in Leon

Leones de Leon vs Orientales de Granada
Leones de Leon vs Orientales de Granada

This morning I awoke with no real set plans for the day. This is quite typical of me when I travel. As a matter of fact I rarely ever plan things far ahead of time unless it’s something that I need to make definite reservations for. After showering I decided to go for a stroll, possibly check out some of the many museos (museums) here in Leon. All of that went out the window once I found out that there was a baseball game going on about 20 minutes away from the hostel. Seriously, could there be any more of an authentic experience than attending a professional baseball game while in Nicaragua? In case you didn’t know, baseball is the most popular sport in the Nicaragua, so I knew it would be quite the spectacle.

The front desk attendant at my hostel told me that the game would be starting at 10AM so I better get moving. I didn’t know exactly where the stadium was but I figured I would be able to head in the direction and ask a local for more precise directions. I thought about taking a taxi in order to be sure to get there on time but ended up walking the whole way. Half way there I realized I forgot the memory card for my camera. Figures!

Please note the quality of the photos in this post are not the best as I was shooting the game with my iPod touch.

As I approached the stadium I stood in a line of maybe three people. Wait, I thought baseball was the most popular sport in Nicaragua? Plus, it’s a Sunday. Where is everyone? At the ticket window I was asked if I wanted to sit in “premium” seating (50 Cordoba – $2.18 USD) which is located right behind home plate, or “palco” which is the area along the first/third base line (35 Cordoba – $1.53 USD). I chose the palco seats solely due to the fact that I wanted to sit in amongst the locals and not be “that guy” who is sitting along over in the premium seats.

As it turns out, I had made an excellent decision by taking the cheaper seats. As I walked into the stadium I instantly fell into a trance of sorts. I was daydreaming of strolling into Fenway Park asking the usher to show me to my seats only then I realized I was in Leon and there were no assigned seats at this game. You buy a ticket, you get a seat. It’s as simple as that. Here’s what my section along the first base line looked like…

Leones de Leon Baseball Game
Palco seating at the Leones de Leon Baseball Game

There wasn’t much going on in the field besides some crew watering the field, and no players in sight. Hmm. It was now 10:15AM and the game was supposed to have already started. There has to be a reason why nobody is here and the game hasn’t started. I ask a guy nearby what time the game starts and he says “once” (meaning 11). Ahh! Si, I say. Turns out the game starts at 11AM, not 10! That explains why I’ve been sitting here for the last half hour watching the crew water the grass.

Leones de Leon vs Orientales de Granada
Pregame field maintenance

Just before 11 the masses started to arrive, the players started to practice in the field and my section was filling up fast. By the time the game kicked off my section was just about filled.

Leon, Nicaragua Baseball Game
Mixed bag of Leon and Granada fans
Leon baseball game
Random geeky self-photo at the game

The Orientales de Granada started the first inning off with 2 runs and Leon struck back with 2 to tie it up going into the second. Leon’s best inning was the third when they scored five runs. When I say that people were going ballistic in the crowd, I mean it! Fans of the Orientales de Granada were in the stands and they were getting taunted by the Leones fans. I was having the time of my life listening to them yell back and forth while trying to understand what they were yapping at each other about. Presumably the fact that Leon was kicking ass at this point. After the 4th inning I grabbed myself a water (C$15 cordoba – $0.65 USD) and a piece of pizza for C$20 Cordoba – $0.87 USD.

By the eighth inning things we’re getting wild in the stands. The Nicaraguans are certainly passionate about baseball, that’s for sure. Their passion reminded me of my fellow Red Sox fans back home. It came down to the wire at the end with Leon scoring two runs late in the eighth and shutting down Granada at the top of the ninth finishing them with a score of 12-10. Yes, I know, that’s a lot of runs. Considering I’m not so much of a baseball fan it was nice to have an action packed game versus one that I end up falling asleep drooling on the shoulder of the poor stranger next to me.

What I loved about the Game

The Sportsmanship

What I enjoyed the most about the game was the fact that the fans from opposing teams were taunting each other for the laugh, not to provoke violence of any sort. At least that was the case today. I can’t speak for other games since this is my first in Nicaragua but I noticed a lot of the opposing fans laughing and shaking hands after the game. That’s real sportsmanship and it shows the kids at the game that it is in fact “just a game” at the end of the day.

The Band

I hear music, and it’s pretty damn good! Everyone in the crowd is moving to the beat. All of a sudden I look over to see where the music is coming from and directly to my left is a makeshift band that formed in the crowd. Each person had some sort of instrument, including a saxophone, trumpet, drums, and even some children hitting Coca Cola bottles off the backs of the seats in front of them. Did you hear the music in the video above? That was the band believe it or not. Since there’s no “official” music or band at these games, these guys come along and play their own music. SO COOL! Enough said.

The Trees in Left Field

Leon Baseball Game
Groups of children were watching the game from the tops of these trees!

See those trees in the distance? I estimated that the one to the right was at least 75 feet tall. If so, the children sitting in the branches about 10 or 15 feet below that were still a good 60 feet in the air. They couldn’t afford to come to the game, so they climb the trees out in left field and catch the game for free! In the eighth inning there was a child at the very top of the tree to the left and he had each of his hands on a branch. When Leon scored the final two runs, you could see him waving his arms and the branches in a jumping jack fashion as if he was waving in celebration. It was too funny and one of those “you had to be there” moments of the day.

The Friendly Fans

Near the end of the game I got to chatting with a local Nicaraguan man named Yader who lived in California for five years and worked on Carnival Cruise lines. My broken Spanish and his broken English meshed together perfectly and we were able to engage in a really cool conversation through out the 8th and 9th innings. He also introduced me to a guy who looked identical to Manny Ramirez. When I mentioned his resemblence, he laughed and yelled out “Manny!”. Yader invited me to come to the next game on Wednesday to hang out, same section different time. I’ll be returning from an overnight volcano trek on Wednesday at 4PM so we’ll have to see if I have enough energy to head to the game.

If you’re in Leon, Granada, or any other Nicaraguan city that has a professional baseball team, do yourself a favor and go catch a game! I highly recommend it and it is quite possibly one of the most authentic Nicaraguan experiences I’ve had as of yet. My total cost for the game (ticket, water, slice of pizza) came to $3.06 USD. Pretty incredible, right?

Check out the official Nicaraguan Professional Baseball League website Nicaraguan Baseball League.

7 thoughts on “Take Me Out to the Ball Game – An Authentic Nicaraguan Experience”

  1. So cool! As a huge baseball fan, I would love to go to a baseball game down in Central America. Sounds like a great way to be a part of the culture and catch a slice of home.

    Reply
  2. Hallo People in Leon, i was playing Basebaal on this field in 11.22 1972 against Poerto Rico for the XX world Championchips. Robero Clemente was Managing the Poerto Rican Team and i made a Movie of him during Batting Practice. You can see the Video under : You tube : Last sequenses of Robero Clemente. Please,can you look for Fotos from that Game on that day. ? Maby a Foto of the German Baseball-Team i played fore.

    Reply
  3. Pingback: 16 Nicaragua Travel Tips from the Rockstars of Travel Blogging | San Juan Live
  4. Im going to a game in Granada Nicaragua tonight. I enjoyed reading your article.
    …a childhood dream of mine is about to come true.
    …cheers from the cheap seats ..Dan

    Reply

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